What's good in

February

Best of British
Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Chicory

Jerusalem artichokes

Kale

Leeks

Mushrooms

Parsnips

Pears

Potatoes

Purple sprouting broccoli

Rhubarb (forced)

Spring greens

Swede


From abroad
Blood oranges

Grapes

Lemons

Lychees

Passion fruit

Seville oranges


Embracing British food
Chicken stock

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Ingredients

Makes 1-1.5 litres
1 cooked chicken carcass
the neck and giblets from the chicken, but not the liver
1-2 onions, roughly chopped
1-2 large carrots, roughly chopped
2 bay leaves
a few black peppercorns
3-4 celery sticks, roughly chopped
½ a large leek, roughly chopped
a few chunks of peeled celeriac or parsnip (optional)
1 sprig of thyme (optional)
a few parsley stalks (optional)




Instructions

Use your fingers and a small, sharp knife to completely strip the chicken of any remaining good meat. Set this aside for soup or snadwiches. Tear the carcass into fairly small pieces and cram them, along with any skin, bones, fat, jelly or burnt bits from the roasting tin, into a saucepan that will take them snugly. If you have the fresh giblets, add these too (minus the liver, which can make the stock bitter – save it for sautéing, see below). Add the vegetables and herbs, packing them in as snugly as you can so that you need no more than 1.5 litres of cold water to just cover everything.

Bring the pan to a tremulous simmer and let it cook, uncovered, for at least three hours – up to five. Top up the water once or twice, if necessary. Strain the stock through a fine sieve, leave it to cool, then chill it. A layer of fat will solidify on the top, which you can scrape off – but I don’t usually bother unless it’s excessive.